40 Gallon Breeder - New Hobby & Build - Please look over

[DWick180]

I am newer to the hobby. I used to have a 29G Saltwater tank about 10 years ago and am confident that I've forgotten everything but I do remember really enjoying it. I made the decision to jump back in.

I was going to start with a 55G tank but was talked out of that by the worker at my LFS, saying I should go either smaller (40B) or larger (75G) due to the thin dimensions of the 55G. I made the decision to go smaller with a 40B and can always upgrade years down the road. I've also decided to go sump-less.

I'm hoping somebody can look over my plans and let me know if I'm messing up anything. Also, any general advice would be greatly appreciated! I'm looking to keep several fish along with corals and at least 1 anemone.

Tank - 40 Gallon Breeder
Stand - Purchased a 55G tank stand from Petsmart, but will appreciate the extra space around the side of the tank
Tank Background - Just getting some black static cling background
Light - 2x AI Prime 16 HD LED Reef Light
Live Sand - 40 lbs CaribSea Special Grade Arag-Alive! Reef Sand
Live Rock - ~40 lbs. of Real Reef Rock (bought dry and will use the 'One and Only' bacteria on it)
Heater - BRS 200W Titanium Aquarium Heater System (My room runs a little colder in the winter so rounded up to 200W)
Protein Skimmer - Reef Octopus BH-1000 HOB Protein Skimmer

I'll be getting the RODI Water, Salt, Food from my LFS
I'll also be getting a basic refractometer, thermometer, API Saltwater Test Kit, net, and gravel vacuum/water siphon from amazon.

One question I did have is will I need a filter in addition to my protein skimmer? If so, does anybody have any recommendations?

Does anybody see anything missing, think a different product would work better, or do you feel I am on the right track?

I thank you all in advance!

 

[snorklr]

ok problem one... a normal 55 stand is 12x48 ...a 40 b is 18x36... you cant have the tank hanging off the front and back....you'd need a stand for a 75 to be 18....and depending on what stand and how its constructed(say if the top of the stand is just a sheet of mdf) concentrating the weight of the tank in the middle of it and not out at the legs would not be good....avoid the API crap, and if thats what the LFS is using to test their water avoid the LFS....i'm not fond of HOB skimmers as things can happen that will have them overflowing all over your floor....thats one of the reasons why i have a sump....its a dollar a gallon 20 long with a $100 fiji cube diy sump kit ....drilled the tank myself....i personally trust my TM hydrometer more than a refractometer that needs to be calibrated, but then i'm an old analog kinda guy...you'll need another heater to warm up the LFS water for your changes and in the long run you may be happier making your own RO/DI...and a tds meter to see if their stuff's ok...i'll let others chime in with their filtration opinions and the great dry rock/ bottled bacteria vs live ocean rock debate...

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

skip the refractometer , get a salinity meter, dont bother with the api master kit, just get individual kits, heck if your getting your water at your lfs and they are a good lfs you might be better to them test for you. read up on test kits

is the 55 stand 12 wide , the 40B will be 18 wide so not sure if your same stand will work
either size would be good for a first tank same gear for either setup

 

[New&no clue]

I would suggest two power heads and an auto water top off system.

 

[AnotherReefHobbyist]

skip the refractometer , get a salinity meter, dont bother with the api master kit, just get individual kits, heck if your getting your water at your lfs and they are a good lfs you might be better to them test for you. read up on test kits

is the 55 stand 12 wide , the 40B will be 18 wide so not sure if your same stand will work
either size would be good for a first tank same gear for either setup

I have found refractometers to be a really great tool, so I would not be so fast to dismiss them. ( There is a reason they are the standard )

 

[DWick180]

skip the refractometer , get a salinity meter, dont bother with the api master kit, just get individual kits, heck if your getting your water at your lfs and they are a good lfs you might be better to them test for you. read up on test kits

is the 55 stand 12 wide , the 40B will be 18 wide so not sure if your same stand will work
either size would be good for a first tank same gear for either setup

I do apologize for not clarifying about the stand. The stand was made for a 55-75 gallon tank, so it is about 48x18.

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

I have found refractometers to be a really great tool, so I would not be so fast to dismiss them. ( There is a reason they are the standard )

Not a dig on refractometers, Just saying if new and just starting out the digital meter is much easier. We could recommend an old school hydrometer they work too, but are a bit cumbersome. Plus a good refractometer costs more that the entire tank and contents list.

 

[DWick180]

I would suggest two power heads and an auto water top off system.

Yes! I meant to put that I had not chosen my powerheads yet either! There seem to be so many, is there any in particular you recommend?

 

[Dom]

skip the refractometer

Bad idea. When properly calibrated, a refractometer will provide the greatest accuracy. Salinity is one of the most important measurements we take of our tanks. Don't cut corners here.

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

Bad idea. When properly calibrated, a refractometer will provide the greatest accuracy. Salinity is one of the most important measurements we take of our tanks. Don't cut corners here

 

[New&no clue]

On my 30 I am currently using Innovative Marine, I would classify them as mid-range. They have some controllability and have worked great for me.

Auqa Gadget Desktop WaveLink DC Powerhead (165 - 1500 GPH) - Innovative Marine

Ultra Quiet Sine Wave Technology Recommended Tank Size - 10-30 gallons Innovative Marine's WaveLink Auqa Gadget is a super small but powerful powerhead. The new sine wave technology keeps the pump running ultra quiet compared to traditional pumps, and the DC controller lets you customize the...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

actually a cheap hydrometer will give more accurate readings than a cheap refractometer
if your super concerned with sg to the .000001 level . hint all 3 work for aquarium usage

 

[DWick180]

Outside of the hydrometer / refractometer / etc. information:
Does everything else look good?
Any recommendations on powerheads?
Do I need a filter along with a protein skimmer?

 

[EricR]

Rocks, sand, lights look good -- wish I had gone with the AI Prime HDs but currently running two, cheap, mismatched lights on a 40 breeder.

Good question about filtration -- I'm running 2x cheap HOB power filters with NO skimmer and NO sump. (I have no experience with protein skimmers but would think you'd want some kind of additional mechanical filtration but not 100% sure).

If/when I need to replace either of my cheapie HOB filters, I like this one:
Seachem Tidal 75

For flow (powerhead), I'm running 1x AI Nero 5 and am pretty happy with it. For budget but similar, I was considering the Jebao MLW series so you might want to look at those (and get 2 instead of 1x Nero 5).

Everyone complains about the API test kits but they're cheap and served me well enough in the beginning for getting started. (I don't recommend them, but also don't hate them as much as most on this forum seem to).

 

[xcountryx]

Take a look at my build thread. I'm also doing a 40b setup but with a sump. I may be using the stand your talking about. As for the HOB filter. I would opt out of that due to bad past experiences with one overflowing alot. But options are slim without a sump too.

 

[Sebastiancrab]

I have a 40B/ 20 gal sump system. Sicce pumps are very good. I use a refractometer. Skip the vinyl backing on the back. I started out with that too and it does not work. Water can run over and it creates a mess. Suggest you use blue or black paint. I used a pretty sample blue latex (less than $3) from Home Depot that turned out great. I use Seachem Tidal Filter overflows on my FW tank and my previous 29 gal SW FOWLR. Easy to use and dependable particularly with Polyfilter. A sump is really the way to go though because a skimmer will pull out more detritus and give you more water volume. I am glad I did not go with a larger system. More work and more money. Things have really increased in price.

 

[newbie2014]

I kept a bb, no sump, no skimmer 40B for 5+ yrs, then I switched a proper tank/sump setup. It’s a much easier system to maintain now. The increased volume and space (because of the sump) allows the usage of better quality equipments ,and less frequent and easier maintenance. And the DT is devoid of equipments hanging off of it.

Have the tank drilled, or get a reef- ready one. IMO, it’s money well spent.

 

[Acros]

Get 2x 100w heater. You don’t want to risk a 200w heater cooking your system. BRS heaters do not have the best track record (I am purely basing this on comments I see on r2r).

 

[Sebastiancrab]

I regret the DIY work for the sump. Buy one ready made it's worth it. Better yet, buy a system with everything ready to put together. If I had to do it over again, I wish I had gone that route.

I use API test kits except a Hanna phosphate ULR. They work fine for me.

Also, get a controller for your heaters. I recommend an Inkbird. Have had to send my Finnex in for repairs twice now.

 

[Acros]

I regret the DIY work for the sump. Buy one ready made it's worth it. Better yet, buy a system with everything ready to put together. If I had to do it over again, I wish I had gone that route.

I use API test kits except a Hanna phosphate ULR. They work fine for me.

Also, get a controller for your heaters. I recommend an Inkbird. Have had to send my Finnex in for repairs twice now.

I agree with you. DIY was not significantly cheaper, but looked significantly less cooler.