Another thing for others( now that your finished) baking soda and super glue is wonderful in building structures. Baking soda is basically an instant hardener.
29G First Reef Tank Build!!
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@bradreef , thanks for the idea. The link didn't show up in the post but I found it on Amazon. Do you have a photo or video of how you set it up? Didn't know that about the baking soda. I have an unopened bottle of the quick set on the shelf. Doubt it expires, so I'll have it for dream tank aquascape.
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It seems the cycle is going nowhere on display tank. Added Dr Tim's (2 oz bottle--good for 30 gallons) on 27 Dec. Tested ammonia everyday since and reading has stayed at 2.0. There's a thread somewhere on here I read through about cycling and not wasting your money on nitrite tests--couldn't find it again. But since the cycle has stalled, I bought a nitrite test today and tested the water--0.1 mg/L.
LFS didn't have Salifert test kit that I was looking for, but they had Fluval/Hagen. Since there weren't any other options, I got it. Was really pleased--kit was pretty straight forward. Pics attached. The kit uses similar tubes to the the ubiquitous API tests. Comes with a plastic tray to keep everything together and more importantly holds the tube while waiting the 2 minutes for the test to develop. The thing I liked best is that the color chart is easy to compare--marked area to hold the test tube adjacent to color scale. The thing I liked least is that the instructions/color chart are on regular paper vice water resistant paper like the Red Sea tests.
Contacted Dr Tim's this morning about stalled cycle and heard back before lunch. They asked about live sand use (no) and if there was any nitrite value. Haven't heard back since I replied with test results. Also tested nitrate with Hanna checker--didn't expect anything but figured I'd fire up the checker and learn how to use it. Biggest issue with the Hanna was being careful enough to cut the reagent packet appropriately so none spilled when pouring it--think this same complaint is just about everywhere.
LFS didn't have Salifert test kit that I was looking for, but they had Fluval/Hagen. Since there weren't any other options, I got it. Was really pleased--kit was pretty straight forward. Pics attached. The kit uses similar tubes to the the ubiquitous API tests. Comes with a plastic tray to keep everything together and more importantly holds the tube while waiting the 2 minutes for the test to develop. The thing I liked best is that the color chart is easy to compare--marked area to hold the test tube adjacent to color scale. The thing I liked least is that the instructions/color chart are on regular paper vice water resistant paper like the Red Sea tests.
Contacted Dr Tim's this morning about stalled cycle and heard back before lunch. They asked about live sand use (no) and if there was any nitrite value. Haven't heard back since I replied with test results. Also tested nitrate with Hanna checker--didn't expect anything but figured I'd fire up the checker and learn how to use it. Biggest issue with the Hanna was being careful enough to cut the reagent packet appropriately so none spilled when pouring it--think this same complaint is just about everywhere.
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Been gone on a work trip all week which is why I haven't posted. Was near Orlando so I stopped by WWC; got more Dr Tim's to try and kick the cycle up a notch, also bought the Hanna ammonia checker--have never been a fan of the color testing going back to freshwater days. Love being able to look at a number. Before catching the return flight I also got a half dozen blue legged hermit crabs so I don't have to worry about uneaten food.
So it's been 5 days since I tested and having been gone I was kind of expecting the cycle to be done and it might be. It's definitely kicked in, but not sure it's done.
Tonight's tests:
pH: ~7.7 (hard to tell between 7.7 and 8.0)
Ammonia: 1.2 (Red Sea)
Ammonia: 0.03 (Hanna)
Nitrite: 3.3+ (really dark pink and 3.3 is as high as the scale goes)
Nitrate: 39
So the Red Sea test kit reading makes me wonder if I'm doing something wrong, especially since the nitrites and nitrates are so high. I dumped the bottle of Dr Tim's in and I think I'll test again on Sunday. The clownfish finish the two-week observation period following the Humblefish hybrid TTM on Wednesday and I'd like to transfer them to the display assuming the cycle is complete.
The good news is that the white spot (maybe some kind of sore?) on the smaller clownfish near his chin has gone away. Additionally, my wife figured out how to get them to eat the spirulina brine and the PE mysis. Previously when I fed those, they'd look but not eat. My suspicion was that the bits were too large even though I had tried to cut them up a bit. While I was on travel, she took a mortar and pestle and ground the frozen up a bit and now they're going after it aggressively.
The hermit's went in after temp acclimation and a few of them went after leftover food chunks right away. Most of them are really small, but one is about the size of a quarter.
Next upgrades will the the HOB refugium and the display tank light--probably getting both middle of next month, unless I see something on sale. Will get next fish in about three weeks when I have two weeks straight without travel. Think I'm going to have to alter the order of fish buying based on what's available at the LFS.
So it's been 5 days since I tested and having been gone I was kind of expecting the cycle to be done and it might be. It's definitely kicked in, but not sure it's done.
Tonight's tests:
pH: ~7.7 (hard to tell between 7.7 and 8.0)
Ammonia: 1.2 (Red Sea)
Ammonia: 0.03 (Hanna)
Nitrite: 3.3+ (really dark pink and 3.3 is as high as the scale goes)
Nitrate: 39
So the Red Sea test kit reading makes me wonder if I'm doing something wrong, especially since the nitrites and nitrates are so high. I dumped the bottle of Dr Tim's in and I think I'll test again on Sunday. The clownfish finish the two-week observation period following the Humblefish hybrid TTM on Wednesday and I'd like to transfer them to the display assuming the cycle is complete.
The good news is that the white spot (maybe some kind of sore?) on the smaller clownfish near his chin has gone away. Additionally, my wife figured out how to get them to eat the spirulina brine and the PE mysis. Previously when I fed those, they'd look but not eat. My suspicion was that the bits were too large even though I had tried to cut them up a bit. While I was on travel, she took a mortar and pestle and ground the frozen up a bit and now they're going after it aggressively.
The hermit's went in after temp acclimation and a few of them went after leftover food chunks right away. Most of them are really small, but one is about the size of a quarter.
Next upgrades will the the HOB refugium and the display tank light--probably getting both middle of next month, unless I see something on sale. Will get next fish in about three weeks when I have two weeks straight without travel. Think I'm going to have to alter the order of fish buying based on what's available at the LFS.
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Moved the fish and hermit crabs to display tank on Monday. Been much nicer having them in that tank vice in the basement. Only took one day and my daughter noticed the largest hermit crab, AKA Bob, was in new shell--apparently he wasn't sure about the new shell and as they kept watching, he switched shells again. They were amazed and excited--so cool. The next morning Bob had switched back to the large shell--seems he goes back and forth regularly.
Don't have a tank light yet and noticed that it's really easy to overfeed with just the ambient room light. I moved the small light I have for quarantine to the display tank temporarily and dialed down the power to avoid algae growth. The other thing making it too easy to overfeed is that I'm using a regular sized turkey baster and it sucks up a bunch of mysis/brine shrimp. Kind of difficult to dial in the amount. Any suggestions on a better alternative would be helpful. It's nice having the hermit crabs though--they scarf down the uneaten food.
Some other things I've noticed after the first week in the display tank. I really would prefer to have an MP10 for the powerhead. The feed mode would be sweet as well as having the randomness. The other factor I'd like to have is the nighttime calm mode. We turn the power head off for feeding and at night leaving the HOB for circulation. The clownfish seem to like that because they are cluster near the powerhead overnight.
Been wavering on the display tank light. Because of the canopy design, the light I'm planning on (AI Prime 16HD) will be mounted about 5-1/2" from water surface and that doesn't account for the light thickness. Been kicking ideas around in my head about how to mount it a little higher without making the canopy too much higher. I also thought about switching to T5 retrofit kits. Scratched that idea after figuring out that I'd need 4 T5s and with only a 12" deep tank there would be minimal room to get to the tank to clean, feed or whatever else.
Planning on getting 2-3 more fish in a few weeks when my work travel schedule will allow me to run them through the hybrid TTM. Doing a 10% water change tomorrow; things moving along slowly and smoothly so far.
Don't have a tank light yet and noticed that it's really easy to overfeed with just the ambient room light. I moved the small light I have for quarantine to the display tank temporarily and dialed down the power to avoid algae growth. The other thing making it too easy to overfeed is that I'm using a regular sized turkey baster and it sucks up a bunch of mysis/brine shrimp. Kind of difficult to dial in the amount. Any suggestions on a better alternative would be helpful. It's nice having the hermit crabs though--they scarf down the uneaten food.
Some other things I've noticed after the first week in the display tank. I really would prefer to have an MP10 for the powerhead. The feed mode would be sweet as well as having the randomness. The other factor I'd like to have is the nighttime calm mode. We turn the power head off for feeding and at night leaving the HOB for circulation. The clownfish seem to like that because they are cluster near the powerhead overnight.
Been wavering on the display tank light. Because of the canopy design, the light I'm planning on (AI Prime 16HD) will be mounted about 5-1/2" from water surface and that doesn't account for the light thickness. Been kicking ideas around in my head about how to mount it a little higher without making the canopy too much higher. I also thought about switching to T5 retrofit kits. Scratched that idea after figuring out that I'd need 4 T5s and with only a 12" deep tank there would be minimal room to get to the tank to clean, feed or whatever else.
Planning on getting 2-3 more fish in a few weeks when my work travel schedule will allow me to run them through the hybrid TTM. Doing a 10% water change tomorrow; things moving along slowly and smoothly so far.
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Two new fish yesterday! A royal gramma and a Biota Links Goby. Got them from the same LFS. They quarantine their new arrivals with meds for two weeks, so I took a risk and put them directly in display. Was concerned about the link's goby getting enough food in quarantine since it's a sand sifter. The goby went right to the bottom and starting sifting for food. The gramma dove for the bottom and went into hiding right away. After an hour I couldn't find it--checked the floor and everything. It found a really nice hiding spot out of view in the back and I found it in the back wall reflection. In the photo, the links goby is bottom left and the gramma is bottom center hiding under the rock. Later in the evening the gramma would poke its head out for a bit--think it's slowly getting comfortable.
Ordering a CPR aquafuge next week and planning on getting the display light at the end of the month. So far have avoided the uglies with minimal lighting. Hoping that the time with minimal light and adding the refugium before the display light, I'll continue with that luck.
Ordering a CPR aquafuge next week and planning on getting the display light at the end of the month. So far have avoided the uglies with minimal lighting. Hoping that the time with minimal light and adding the refugium before the display light, I'll continue with that luck.
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Been a couple few weeks and a lot has happened. Bought the CPR aquatics small HOB refugium. Very nice--quality acrylic work. Only down side was that there's a retaining pin missing but they're sending it. Filled it with a little sand and marine pure gems. Surprising that half of the gems floated for several days before finally sinking. Finished the canopy--haven't bought the permanent light yet. Doors are ready to be glued up, then sanding and paint. Goal is to have those done by next weekend. Plan was to order ulva and copepods from algae barn for the refugium, but they're out of ulva and out of chaeto.
Was on travel last week and of course one of the clownfish started acting weird. Seemed to be eating normal and then stopped one morning and started swimming vertically down. It didn't last the day. Felt really bad for my wife because there wasn't much she could do--hate losing fish. Wife took photo of the dead fish--no black or white spots or anything else obvious. I came home two days later and tested the water. Tank looks good still and I'm just starting to grow a little algae which I figure isn't bad for 2-1/2 months.
SG: 1.025
pH: 8.0
Ammonia: 0.001 ppm
NO2: <0.1 ppm
NO3: 12.7 ppm
All the other fish (remaining clown, royal gramma, and link's goby) all were eating well and still are. Had a couple fish (tailspot blenny and yellow clown goby) on hold awaiting them to finish the QT at LFS and got them and a replacement clownfish--black this time. Everyone getting along. Tried mastick this weekend with mixed success, water has clouded up a bit. Fish hovered over it for a while and nibbled here and there, but the hermit crabs seemed to take to it more. Did 20-25% water changed today.
Fish list (so far):
Next steps: finish doors, get display light, algae, and copepods. Oh and coral too!
Was on travel last week and of course one of the clownfish started acting weird. Seemed to be eating normal and then stopped one morning and started swimming vertically down. It didn't last the day. Felt really bad for my wife because there wasn't much she could do--hate losing fish. Wife took photo of the dead fish--no black or white spots or anything else obvious. I came home two days later and tested the water. Tank looks good still and I'm just starting to grow a little algae which I figure isn't bad for 2-1/2 months.
SG: 1.025
pH: 8.0
Ammonia: 0.001 ppm
NO2: <0.1 ppm
NO3: 12.7 ppm
All the other fish (remaining clown, royal gramma, and link's goby) all were eating well and still are. Had a couple fish (tailspot blenny and yellow clown goby) on hold awaiting them to finish the QT at LFS and got them and a replacement clownfish--black this time. Everyone getting along. Tried mastick this weekend with mixed success, water has clouded up a bit. Fish hovered over it for a while and nibbled here and there, but the hermit crabs seemed to take to it more. Did 20-25% water changed today.
Fish list (so far):
- Ocellaris Clownfish x2 (amphiprion ocellaris)--one black, one orange
- Yellow Clown Goby (Gobiodon okinawae)
- Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto)
- Tailspot Blenny (Ecsenius stigmatura)
- Link's Goby (Amblygobius linki)
Next steps: finish doors, get display light, algae, and copepods. Oh and coral too!
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Lost two fish last night--the replacement black clown and the royal gramma. This hobby is hard. Not really sure why or what's going on--really frustrating. The royal gramma had been flashing for about a week and then yesterday it lodged itself at the base of a rock and didn't move much the whole day. The tailspot blenny started doing the same a couple days ago. Talispot blenny was also breathing rapidly. Flukes seems to be the best fit--removed the hermit crabs yesterday and dosed tank with API GC. Found the black clownfish attached to the power head this morning and the royal gramma floating at the bottom. I tested water yesterday and nothing is out of range with what I've been seeing every time I test.
Unrelated, but I'm going to change the power head in the display from the Tunze nano (475 gph) to the Sicce nano (270 gph)--seems a better fit for the 29G tank size.
Unrelated, but I'm going to change the power head in the display from the Tunze nano (475 gph) to the Sicce nano (270 gph)--seems a better fit for the 29G tank size.
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