210 Tang and Nem Tank starting this weekend!

[enlighten]

Stocking the tank is still TBD, but need some tips on the fill up!

We plan to mix a few different bacteria, use about 80-120lb of live sand and same for marco rock. We will be getting a bio brick or two rated for 150lb of rock equivalent.

LFS said we could use tap on the fill up with prime or dechlor. We planned on doing instant ocean but want to prepare for the future. Plan is 5-6 tangs and a few smaller fish like clowns, damsels, maybe a wrasse or two. We also want to do Ritteri aka Mags nems as well about 6 months in when we consistently have 0 nitrates and no algae issues.

Skimmer and refugium are also planned, growing red ogo x sea lettuce mix for the tangs to snack on.

My main question, should we do tap or do multiple trips for RO or RODI? Is instant ocean going to be okay for do we need a salt with minerals like calcium etc rated for reefs? Do Ritteri require the reef levels? Might also try sebae, probably wont do bta or lta. Might try a gig but who knows!

Any advice helps, thank you!

 

[gretz32]

I would always do RODI water. I would also highly recommend investing in your own RODI system especially if you are doing a 210 gallon tank. If you don't have one all ready that is. I have been using Instant Ocean Reef Crystals and think it is okay.

Here's an aricle from Bulk Reef Supply that goes over why you should use RODI water. I am not sure "prime or dechlor" do much to phosphate levels, but I am no expert on that matter:

A Definitive Answer: Do You Need RO/DI Water for a Saltwater Aquarium or Reef Tank?

Find out if using unfiltered tap water to mix saltwater for your aquarium is a viable option.

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[Dbichler]

You really need to buy an rodi on a tank this size and no absolutely do not use tap in dt at all except for an absolute emergency. You will battle algae enough for the first year why compound it. Instant ocean is plenty good for any tank. Yes anemones need the same parameters as coral but they also require a more mature tank usually around a year old.

 

[ekandler]

BLUF: don’t use tap.

Here’s the reality, you’re going to eventually have thousands of dollars of fish and coral in your system. The rock, sand, bio media, etc. holds onto chemicals (good and bad) in the tank. If you accidentally dose the wrong thing it can take weeks or months to fully remove it from the tank. Starting with tap water will add all sorts of bad stuff that will take forever to extract back out of the pristine rock and sand you just added.

The LAST thing I’d do is start a brand new tank with anything less than the absolute best RODI and saltwater so it started on the right footing.

For salt choice, go with something with a known track record of consistency (because some have known fluctuation in contents batch to batch) with parameters you’re planning to target in the system. If you want 8dkh alk, don’t use salt that’s 12dkh.

And definitely don’t consider price, for a tank that large, you’re going to spend a lot on this tank to have a successful reef, so the $20 you save between IO and RS per bucket is meaningless in the long run.

 

[kevgib67]

Ditto on the tap water. I don’t think striving for zero nitrates is a good idea. It is better to have to much than to little. Following.

 

[italquam]

Invest in RODI, you start everything on the right foot, also use better salt than Instant Ocean, a little extra to start and will be better in long run. Tap Water and you will be chasing water parameters forever , if you ever see what it in RODI sediment filters, carbon filters when you replace them, you wouldn't drink that water so why use it for a tank.

 

[dschuffert]

I agree with others to try to avoid tap water. I also agree that a RODI unit would benefit you. A 210-gallon tank will be thirsty for daily fresh RODI water to replace evaporation. If you do get a RODI unit, I recommend getting a good one that is easy to service. I prefer the BRS RODI units. I have two of them, and they are workhorses. My well water has a TDS of 436 going into the unit and always 0 coming out. I have to replace my DI resin between 7 and 9 months, and it varies by consumption. I replace the sediment and carbon filters annually.

 

[rhitee93]

Exciting time! Looking forward to seeing your progress.

I'll beat the RODI system dead horse for a bit as well. I'm new at this, and setup a 120gal tank this summer. I thought I was splurging when I setup an RODI system, but in hindsight, I don't know how I would run this tank without it.

I use 7 gallons a week in top-off water to make up for evaporation and another 10 gallons a week for a water change. Add a couple more gallons a week to maintain a small QT tank I have setup, and there just really isn't another practical solution.

I also wouldn't trust the water I could buy from an LFS that suggested you do your first fill with tap water.

 

[italquam]

I personally use Spectrapure RODI, and they are the best made system in my opinion, that is all they do and do it well. I use the 2:1 ration system and it works great, I also added a sediment extra stage, so i go sediment, carbon, second carbon, RO, then dual DI resin, start at 82 tds in and zero out.

 

[Dbichler]

BLUF: don’t use tap.

Here’s the reality, you’re going to eventually have thousands of dollars of fish and coral in your system. The rock, sand, bio media, etc. holds onto chemicals (good and bad) in the tank. If you accidentally dose the wrong thing it can take weeks or months to fully remove it from the tank. Starting with tap water will add all sorts of bad stuff that will take forever to extract back out of the pristine rock and sand you just added.

The LAST thing I’d do is start a brand new tank with anything less than the absolute best RODI and saltwater so it started on the right footing.

For salt choice, go with something with a known track record of consistency (because some have known fluctuation in contents batch to batch) with parameters you’re planning to target in the system. If you want 8dkh alk, don’t use salt that’s 12dkh.

And definitely don’t consider price, for a tank that large, you’re going to spend a lot on this tank to have a successful reef, so the $20 you save between IO and RS per bucket is meaningless in the long run.

Personal opinion here but I’ve used many different salts over the coarse of 17 years and io is perfectly fine. Why spend more on salt to only have to dose anyways and will all the diy additives you save a ton of money. Why spend more on creating salt water when you can spend it elsewhere. I have a 210 as well and you want to save where you can unless you’re wealthy enough to not worry about money.

 

[ekandler]

Personal opinion here but I’ve used many different salts over the coarse of 17 years and io is perfectly fine. Why spend more on salt to only have to dose anyways and will all the diy additives you save a ton of money. Why spend more on creating salt water when you can spend it elsewhere. I have a 210 as well and you want to save where you can unless you’re wealthy enough to not worry about money.

Yup. Not saying there’s anything wrong with IO. I’ve seen people have success with it.

My only point was pick a brand, stick with it, and don’t pick a specific brand based on price on a system that’s going to be insanely expensive cause they’re all about the same.

I was trying to avoid calling out specific brands to let him decide which was best for him with a few things to consider when selecting.

 

[enlighten]

Ditto on the tap water. I don’t think striving for zero nitrates is a good idea. It is better to have to much than to little. Following.

I was looking through other posts on keeping ritteri nems and the consensus was to maintain 0 nitrates.

 

[enlighten]

BLUF: don’t use tap.

Here’s the reality, you’re going to eventually have thousands of dollars of fish and coral in your system. The rock, sand, bio media, etc. holds onto chemicals (good and bad) in the tank. If you accidentally dose the wrong thing it can take weeks or months to fully remove it from the tank. Starting with tap water will add all sorts of bad stuff that will take forever to extract back out of the pristine rock and sand you just added.

The LAST thing I’d do is start a brand new tank with anything less than the absolute best RODI and saltwater so it started on the right footing.

For salt choice, go with something with a known track record of consistency (because some have known fluctuation in contents batch to batch) with parameters you’re planning to target in the system. If you want 8dkh alk, don’t use salt that’s 12dkh.

And definitely don’t consider price, for a tank that large, you’re going to spend a lot on this tank to have a successful reef, so the $20 you save between IO and RS per bucket is meaningless in the long run.

Not sure if we will do any corals except soft corals. Had a bad experience and now they dont want a repeat. Maybe some softies to rebuild the confidence. They mostly want nems anyways.

 

[Dbichler]

I was looking through other posts on keeping ritteri nems and the consensus was to maintain 0 nitrates.

The consensus is wrong in this case you don’t want high but definitely not zero

 

[enlighten]

You really need to buy an rodi on a tank this size and no absolutely do not use tap in dt at all except for an absolute emergency. You will battle algae enough for the first year why compound it. Instant ocean is plenty good for any tank. Yes anemones need the same parameters as coral but they also require a more mature tank usually around a year old.

So anemeones need higher calc, mag, etc ? Maybe we will start with a reef salt instead of io. There is that new one out that I think is their premium brand. Not reef crystals, I forget what its called.

 

[Dbichler]

They just need stable parameters more so than a specific number. Especially specific gravity and alk if those don’t move your typically good. Those two things and all of the anemones I’ve had have been fine any fluctuations and they struggle.

 

[enlighten]

The consensus is wrong in this case you don’t want high but definitely not zero

the info was a few years old, which is why I decided tp bring it back up. to my knowledge ritteri are expert level nems, but if you provide them 3-5 feedings a week, high flow, proper lighting, and consistent clean parameters, they will thrive.

 

[enlighten]

They just need stable parameters more so than a specific number. Especially specific gravity and alk if those don’t move your typically good. Those two things and all of the anemones I’ve had have been fine any fluctuations and they struggle.

We def want the refugium running counter light cycle to help with ph and keep parameters stable. ATO on a 15 gal resevoir, not sure whats the best way to maintain alk though. Besides decent rock, sand, to help buffer. Do you use a doser for kalk?

 

[kevgib67]

I was looking through other posts on keeping ritteri nems and the consensus was to maintain 0 nitrates.

I’m not a nem guy but zero nitrates will starve your coral and put out a welcome mat for dinos.

 

[enlighten]

Based on the recommendations here, we are starting with RODI and Reef Evolution salt. I have a 150gpd 4-stage RODI and installed an auto shut off into 2 32 gal brute cans with float valves. We plan to be filled up by end of Sunday.

Building the scape tomorrow when the marco rocks come in, 80lb of rock and sand each plus a Bio brick rated for 1000 gal. Hoping this will be sufficient to begin our cycle.

LF a red sea wave maker, we have one but will need another to create a nice flow in the tank. Any recommendations on settings are recommended.