200 XL complex algae issues

[design.maddie]

I have been trying to get a handle on my algae issues for about, well too long. I am calling in the cavalry because I am at a loss of solutions. I know there are going to be recommendations that scare me, suggestions that undermine my intelligence and news that breaks my heart at some point. Still, I really want this solved. I don't like to rush with things in my tank so I am taking this super slow, and wanted to dedicate a different thread to it away from my build thread.

Okay, so I don't even know what I should share now and what is pointless information. Let us start with Parameters.

Nitrate undetectable
Phos .05-.08
Alk 9.8 (EDIT:8.9)
Mag 1400
Cal 410-420
Temp 77
SG 35

Water change 10% every 10-14 days

Reef Crystals saltmix

I auto dose 20mL daily All-for-Reef
I auto dose 1mL daily NP-Bacto-Balance

0ppm TDS RO/DI

Stocking:

2 Blue/Green Chromis
1 Orange Clown Goby
1 Splendid Dottyback

I feed less than a gram(total) dry pellets {0.5-1mm} split up 3 times a day [most is eaten within 2 minutes]
I feed ~5mL of frozen mixed with tank water [defrosted] an hour before lights out. [most is eaten within 2 minutes]

I have a well rounded CUC including a super fat serpent star fish (considering a tigertail and a conch)

I run a filter sock 225micron and change it twice a week then run a week without one.

Protein skimmer is DC so I can adjust the flow and air separately.

no other filtration other than extra LR in the sump.

Bristle worm population explosion

Algae status

 

[mdb_talon]

That many bristeworms seems to point to excess feeding(though what you describe does not sound excessive).

I would guess what is going on is the n/p numbers look low but you have a constant breakdown of food/detritus into nutrients that is fueling your algae growth and consuming the nutrients as they released.

If it were me i would find a way to try to incorporate cheato/algae scrubber/etc. Try to create a more ideal situation of nutrient uptake combined with manual removal of algae from DT.

Or go the vibrabt route. Lots have had success.....but i seen too much bad feedback to risk it myself.

 

[MichaelReefer]

I agree, to have that much Bristle worms you are definitely over feeding

 

[design.maddie]

If it were me i would find a way to try to incorporate cheato/algae scrubber/etc. Try to create a more ideal situation of nutrient uptake combined with manual removal of algae from DT.

Or go the vibrabt route.

I am trying to find a chic 5 gallon container that won't look like an eye sore next to my tank, that way I can use part of the sump as a algae reactor. I like this idea.

I am scare to use Vibrant along with NP-Bacto. Too many chemical reactions for me to wrap my head around.

 

[design.maddie]

I agree, to have that much Bristle worms you are definitely over feeding

I agree, but the feeding is pretty standard, I have been altering feedings to combat the algae, from 1 cube of frozen a day to mixing frozen and pellets, to just pellets. My chromis stomachs are non stop caved in if I feed any less. Hell, I have been feeding the regiment from above for over a month now and they still are losing mass. Thought they might balance out. My skimmer is not high functioning, I don't understand skimmers I suppose, even after all these years in the hobby.

 

[z-reefer]

what types of snails do you currently have? this looks like green hair algae, I've had good luck in the past with zebra trochus and large turbo snails. They won't eat it once it gets too long though so next water change attach a small piece of rigid airline tubing to a small diameter hose and use it to scrape the rock while the siphon sucks it out of the tank.

 

[MichaelReefer]

I agree, but the feeding is pretty standard, I have been altering feedings to combat the algae, from 1 cube of frozen a day to mixing frozen and pellets, to just pellets. My chromis stomachs are non stop caved in if I feed any less. Hell, I have been feeding the regiment from above for over a month now and they still are losing mass. Thought they might balance out. My skimmer is not high functioning, I don't understand skimmers I suppose, even after all these years in the hobby.

Have you tried a bristleworm trap?

 

[HuduVudu]

I have a lot of bristle worms and I have a lot of amphipods. They are not really a sign of over feeding. Just a sign of a healthy tank.

Your alk is really high. This isn't good. NSW levels and lower for alk seem to be more amenable for coral growth and this will help with algae abatement. That said, you may have too much CO2 in your tank. This can be a result of multiple issues. Inhibiting gas exchange by blocking surfaces from air. Intake air for skimmers in stands etc ... Try to get your tank opened up to breathe. Also the room that you have the tank in can cause issues. High CO2 in that room can thwart things that you may do to get your tank to breathe. Be aware of that. CO2 issues will also cause depressed PH and elevated alk. This can cause problems with growing coral and with nuisance algae. In summation get the CO2 out, because it is important.

CUC requires plenty of iron. Iron has been removed from all of the salts because iron will also feed algae. It is a Catch 22. My suggestion is more iron so that your CUC can do their thing. They will live longer and be able to grow ensuring that they are keeping the algae down.

EDIT: Don't get caught in the NO3 PO4 rabbit hole, it doesn't lead anywhere.

 

[MichaelReefer]

I have a lot of bristle worms and I have a lot of amphipods. They are not really a sign of over feeding. Just a sign of a healthy tank.

Your alk is really high. This isn't good. NSW levels and lower for alk seem to be more amenable for coral growth and this will help with algae abatement. That said, you may have too much CO2 in your tank. This can be a result of multiple issues. Inhibiting gas exchange by blocking surfaces from air. Intake air for skimmers in stands etc ... Try to get your tank opened up to breathe. Also the room that you have the tank in can cause issues. High CO2 in that room can thwart things that you may do to get your tank to breathe. Be aware of that. CO2 issues will also cause depressed PH and elevated alk. This can cause problems with growing coral and with nuisance algae. In summation get the CO2 out, because it is important.

CUC requires plenty of iron. Iron has been removed from all of the salts because iron will also feed algae. It is a Catch 22. My suggestion is more iron so that your CUC can do their thing. They will live longer and be able to grow ensuring that they are keeping the algae down.

EDIT: Don't get caught in the NO3 PO4 rabbit hole, it doesn't lead anywhere.

9.8 isnt really THAT high... I run at 9 normally.

 

[design.maddie]

9.8 isnt really THAT high... I run at 9 normally.

8.9 lol second person to catch that. Thanks for the keen eyes

 

[design.maddie]

I have a lot of bristle worms and I have a lot of amphipods. They are not really a sign of over feeding. Just a sign of a healthy tank.

Your alk is really high. This isn't good. NSW levels and lower for alk seem to be more amenable for coral growth and this will help with algae abatement. That said, you may have too much CO2 in your tank. This can be a result of multiple issues. Inhibiting gas exchange by blocking surfaces from air. Intake air for skimmers in stands etc ... Try to get your tank opened up to breathe. Also the room that you have the tank in can cause issues. High CO2 in that room can thwart things that you may do to get your tank to breathe. Be aware of that. CO2 issues will also cause depressed PH and elevated alk. This can cause problems with growing coral and with nuisance algae. In summation get the CO2 out, because it is important.

My suggestion is more iron so that your CUC can do their thing. They will live longer and be able to grow ensuring that they are keeping the algae down.

The Alk was a typo, thanks for catching that. You may be on to something with the CO2. Coming out of summer time our houses in southern Louisiana get locked up tight. I do try to open up the cabinet as much as I can but still if the room is stuffy then what help is that?

I will also look into the iron part also. That is also something I would have not considered at all.

 

[design.maddie]

Have you tried a bristleworm trap?

I haven't only because I don't personally have a problem with them, just they seem to be considered a sign of other issues.

 

[design.maddie]

what types of snails do you currently have? this looks like green hair algae, I've had good luck in the past with zebra trochus and large turbo snails. They won't eat it once it gets too long though so next water change attach a small piece of rigid airline tubing to a small diameter hose and use it to scrape the rock while the siphon sucks it out of the tank.

I agree, I think it is a form of Hair Algae also. My current stock of snails includes Bumble Bee Snails, Cortez snails, Dwarf Cerith, Dwarf Planaxis, Florida Cerith, Nassarius Vibex, and Nerite Snail.

 

[HuduVudu]

The Alk was a typo, thanks for catching that. You may be on to something with the CO2. Coming out of summer time our houses in southern Louisiana get locked up tight. I do try to open up the cabinet as much as I can but still if the room is stuffy then what help is that?

I will also look into the iron part also. That is also something I would have not considered at all.

It is hard to gauge actual room CO2 levels. I would get a monitor. It is truly worth the money. As for the tank, you can do the bubble challenge to get a gauge at the tank. Depressed PH can also be an indicator.

As for the alk if you are going to do stonies, alk that is stable and low is best. This is also good for keeping the algae at bay. I would suggest 6.5 dKH to 7.7 dKH. I am not sure why the trend for higher alk, I suppose because people want to catch falling alk. Truly though stable alk is really really important. I have also found that in the NSW range is really the best. Once again all of this presupposes, getting any CO2 issues under control.

 

[HuduVudu]

I agree, I think it is a form of Hair Algae also. My current stock of snails includes Bumble Bee Snails, Cortez snails, Dwarf Cerith, Dwarf Planaxis, Florida Cerith, Nassarius Vibex, and Nerite Snail.

Just FYI several of those snails are scavengers not algae eaters.

 

[BiggestE22]

I would add about 20 small red keg hermit crabs and about 30 snails. Unless you wanna buy an algae reactor or scrubber.

 

[MichaelReefer]

I haven't only because I don't personally have a problem with them, just they seem to be considered a sign of other issues.

Generally that many is a sign of too much feeding. Not really anything else. I have bristleworms in my Refugium but not my display, at least that I have ever seen.

 

[design.maddie]

Just FYI several of those snails are scavengers not algae eaters.

dang! okay, maybe I just need to up the snail pop or general algae eaters. Thanks for looking into that.

 

[mdb_talon]

Generally that many is a sign of too much feeding. Not really anything else. I have bristleworms in my Refugium but not my display, at least that I have ever seen.

Agree. Like almost all wildlife they will grow to the population that the food supply supports barring other predators.

Having said that...i have a ton of bristleworms. I way overfeed as i use the heavy in heavy out philosophy

 

[design.maddie]

I am really thankful for all the insight. I am going to give the conversation a few days to saturate with these ongoing ideas and we can then decide what my first steps should be. Thanks again guys! and gals!